IN JUNE LAST year, a week before the Glastonbury Festival, I sat under a tree on Hampstead Heath, London with my friend Noemi discussing how best to get there. The train and bus were too expensive, and we had no car. The idea of walking came up as an idle joke, but within minutes it had taken hold of our imaginations and resolve. Of course it could be walked. England is riddled with footpaths. Riding the impulse, we went to buy the necessary maps and realised that we would have to leave the next morning. Even then we would have to give ourselves a head start and set off along the Thames from Reading ...
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