For me, growing up in the Italian Dolomites, winter meant snow, a fireplace, wool jumpers, and a mug of hot chocolate warming my frozen hands after a day playing in the snow. By contrast, winter in Australia feels like a holiday. And yet, cold is still cold, especially when your day starts at 4.30am and involves diving in and out of the ocean like a sea otter on too much caffeine.

The alarm goes off to signal a sunrise meet-up at Cabbage Tree Bay Aquatic Reserve, which, of course, is on the other side of Sydney. My wetsuit is still wet from the day before, and nothing says ‘Good morning’ quite ...

 

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