Every October my botanist husband gets a charming invitation to take a botanical education stand at the South Molton Apple Fair. This is the kind of event that if staged in, say, fashionable Seattle or New York would attract thousands. As it is, the fair is a modest little offering that wins both hearts and minds of all those lucky enough to stumble across it and spend the day in and around apples – in all their overlooked glory.

I too am guilty of overlooking the humble apple, and am about to do so again really, because the use of apple in this recipe is a by the by; it is not my star ingredient ...


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