This has to be one of the best campsites ever. It is like a zen garden, swept clean by monsoonal floods of all paraphernalia, so the essentials shine forth: fine, white sand, warm sculptured rocks, smooth and sensuous, and seven trees, all different, each perfectly representing its species.

A kangoroo path leads to the water: a long, luminous pool, deep and clear, tucked in under a sandstone cliff of dazzling colours − red ochre, rose pink, burnt sienna and plum purple.

After a full day’s backpacking, to enter the water is like a baptism. And for the tap-conditioned city dweller, quenching one’s ...


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