English wine is a paradox. From around the time of the Little Ice Age (c.1300–c.1850) in the northern hemisphere, viticulture had not been considered a seriously viable prospect in England. This was partly because of the climate, but also because of a widespread belief that England lacks the terroir (a mysterious French term, which means not only the right kind of soil and weather, but also the know-how and a certain je ne sais quoi) to make really great wine.

Recently, however, England has started to produce quite a few excellent wines, especially sparkling wines. Global warming, which has ...


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