CORRIENTES PROVINCE, northern Argentina. Early May. Autumnal heat. Yesterday’s heavy rain-storm means the roads are pure mud. Very slightly undulating plains.

It’s Saturday. No buses. I’m hitchhiking the 100km from the town to Rincón del Socorro, the conservation project’s base. The first person who passes stops but is going somewhere else. Ten minutes later, a second car. He can take me within 25km of my destination. I get in. We drive, and talk. Some three hours later I get out. We have met only one other vehicle on that slow journey in the mud. I begin to realise that this is not a highly ...


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