FINALLY MADE IT to the village. Our guide got hopelessly lost – like a drunk who can’t find his way around his own backyard. After wading through bogs, and practically breathing mosquitoes, we were welcomed by the elders. They seem shocked to learn that we lost our path.

It is not a good sign. In the past the spirits guided us, so long as we spoke their names and places.

Yuri asked who was most likely to remember the old folk remedies. Our best bet is an elderly woman who lives near the river. She received us without a hint of suspicion.

He wants to ask me about the forest plants? What can ...


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