I know I started cooking in 1984, because that’s the year Sarah Brown’s Vegetarian Cookbook was first published. I spent a precious £10 on it, and I’ve been carrying it around ever since. I simply had no interest in cooking until I turned vegetarian – but I was off to a flying start in 1984, despite being hampered by the filthy, ill-equipped and occasionally, frankly, infested kitchens of the student houses where I lived at the time.

Even now Sarah Brown’s big cheery book makes me smile because it reminds me of the sudden and quite unexpected wave of enthusiasm for cookery that overtook me at ...

 

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