Thirty thousand years ago, deep underground in the Cantabrian caves of what is now northern Spain, shamans would etch with awe the outlines of the bison and mammoths that roamed the plains. I’m gazing, in the vaulted caverns of the Bakerloo line on the London Underground, at another piece of timeless wall art. It’s an ad for the online food delivery company Just Eat. At the centre of the ad, a reminder of man’s eternal urge to gather together in worship, is the perennial chant, “Rockin’ around the Crispy Beef”. “Get that mini fist-pump feeling,” it adds, black font overlaid against a translucent ...


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