Amitav Ghosh recalls the time when he went for a sailing trip in the Flores Sea, located in Indonesian waters. He snorkelled with huge manta rays in what he describes as a strange, uncanny experience. “They are bigger than the room I am in right now, giant creatures! They swim up to you and they make eye contact,” he says. He felt that by circling around they were beckoning him to come along and swim after them. When he stopped following them, they looked back at him as though they were nudging him to continue. “It was so profound, like nothing I’ve ever experienced before.” The excitement in ...

 

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