On a Monday afternoon in late August, Chhimet Rinzin squints in the glare of the afternoon sun. He is standing on a tiny mound in a vast pastureland, surrounded by barren, beige-coloured hills. Behind these hills, under the bluest of blue skies, stand snow-capped mountains. A strong, cold wind blows relentlessly.

“Phee-ee, phee-ee,” Rinzin whistles as he watches over his goats and sheep.

It’s the first day of the Ladakh Nomadic Festival 2021. The venue is Karzok Phu, a pasture in Changthang, a remote region in Ladakh, India. The government has organised the festival for the last two ...


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