Last summer, on a blue-sky day in Portugal’s Peneda-Gerês National Park, I was lucky enough to sit eating cheese sandwiches on the remains of an old wolf trap. My partner and I had been hiking between two remote villages that seemed to have barely changed for centuries. Wild flowers stretched across the grassy foothills, and a light breeze carried the sound of red kites overhead. And, unless a kind local had told us its origin, we would have had no idea what the towering circular structure we were sitting on was built for.

In times past, a wolf, jumping easily up onto the wall from the outside ...


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